I thought, “Certainly, without question, those were the happiest times of my life.” and then realized that, conversely, it was also the most painful and frustrating time of my life, as my marriage was just never what it should have been. How strange, that the best and the worst were happening simultaneously – – – bitter and sweet.

A very health conscious coworker came to me, the office foodie, to tell me about the chocolate she had bought for her husband. She had read that dark or bittersweet chocolate was more healthful than the milk variety. Her husband sometimes likes to indulge in a piece or two in the evenings so she bought him a bar labeled 100% cacao . . . . . baking chocolate! The poor man screwed up his face, sputtered and coughed and simply said, “I just can’t do it, honey.”

Unsweetened chocolate, as its name indicates, contains absolutely no added sugar. This is what you give your spouse if you want to make them suffer. Bittersweet chocolate has anywhere from about 10% to 50% sugar. Because of the difference in sugar content, these two types of chocolate are not interchangeable in recipes.

The good news is this: bittersweet and semisweet are very similar. Bittersweet chocolate is often now labeled “dark chocolate” and clearly lists the percentage of chocolate. That percentage tells you how sweet the chocolate will be: chocolate labeled “70% chocolate” contains 30% sugar, “60% chocolate” contains 40% sugar, and so on.  Semisweet chocolate tends to be higher in sugar than bittersweet or dark chocolate, but there can be overlap.

Semisweet is a chocolate that plays well with others while bittersweet chocolate really shines in a recipe where the chocolate is truly the star player, like Bittersweet Truffles or Chocolate Pots de Crème.

As a child, I never understood when an adult would say something was “too sweet”. “How can that be? Are they nuts?!!” Sweet is awesome! But as we mature, usually, our palate does, as well, and we require flavors that aren’t just simply one thing. Maybe, as time and our experiences accumulate, we grow to appreciate more sophisticated flavor palates that actually mimic real life: savory, salty/sweet and bitter/sweet. Solely one or the other – too bitter or too sweet are almost unbearable. The trick is to find the balance as the bitter (or salty) only intensifies the sweetness.

It’s bittersweet knowing that you’ve done such a good job raising your kids that they don’t need you anymore. They’ve spread their beautiful wings and are out in the world being the independent, self-reliant adults you always hoped they would, but as a result you don’t get to talk to them or see them nearly as often as you’d like. With each sweet celebration of a horse or other pet that comes into your life – or anyone you love, for that matter – looms the bitter day you have to say goodbye. Like a fine chocolate, let the bitter intensify the sweetness making us truly present and appreciative of every moment.

Truffle base

• 1 1/4 cups heavy whipping cream
• 9 ounces high–quality bittersweet chocolate (70% cocoa), chopped, divided

Chocolate coating

• 8 ounces high–quality bittersweet chocolate (70% cocoa), chopped
• Unsweetened cocoa powder (for rolling)

Directions:

For truffle base:

1. Bring cream to simmer in heavy small saucepan. Remove from heat; cool to lukewarm, 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, stir 7 ounces chocolate in metal bowl over saucepan of simmering water until smooth. Remove from heat. Add 2 ounces chocolate; stir until smooth. Stir in cream. Chill truffle base until firm enough to roll, about 3 hours.
3. Line rimmed baking sheet with waxed paper. Roll 2 teaspoons truffle base between fingertips into ball. Transfer to prepared sheet. Repeat with remaining truffle base. Chill until firm, about 1 hour.

For chocolate coating:

4. Line another rimmed baking sheet with waxed paper. Stir chocolate in metal bowl over saucepan of simmering water just until melted. Remove from heat. Cool slightly.
5. Scoop some of warm (not hot) melted chocolate into palm of hand. Place 1 chilled truffle in hand and roll in palm to coat. Transfer to prepared sheet. Repeat with remaining melted chocolate and truffles, rewarming chocolate if necessary. Roll in cocoa powder. Chill until firm, about 1 hour.
6. Can be made 1 week ahead. Store in airtight container and keep chilled.Let stand at room temperature 1 hour before serving.

Makes about 30 truffles

Ingredients:

8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

1 3/4 cups heavy cream

1/2-cup whole milk

1/8 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

6 large egg yolks

2 1/2 tablespoons sugar

Directions:

1. Preheat the oven to 325ºF.
2. Put the chocolate in a medium bowl. Heat the cream, milk, and salt in a small saucepan. When it begins to simmer, remove it from the heat and pour it over the chocolate. Stir with a whisk until smooth.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, then whisk in the sugar. Gradually add the melted chocolate mixture while whisking until well blended. Strain the mixture into a large measuring cup or pitcher, or another bowl.
4. Place 6 ramekins or custard cups in a roasting pan or baking dish. Divide the custards among the ramekins. Add hot water to the baking dish until it reaches halfway up the outside of the ramekins.
5. Cover snugly with foil and carefully place the pan in the oven. Bake until the custards are set around the edges but still slightly soft and jiggly when you nudge them, about 30 to 35 minutes, but check them before as ovens can vary. Remove the pan of custards from the oven and lift off the foil.
6. As soon as the custards are cool enough to handle, remove them from the hot water bath and place them on a cooling rack.

Makes 6 servings